瀬波温泉夕映えの宿「汐美荘」2-1
The Sun Sets on my Onsen Bath - Senami Onsen in Niigata
As I mentioned, Shiomiso is a very traditional Japanese hotel. As such, service and hospitality are two of the most important considerations in the running of the facility. Without realizing it, guests bear witness to practices that are complex yet subtle, almost an artform in themselves. Certain codes of conduct and behavior are steeped with historic significance and have been practiced throughout the centuries. Japanese hospitality is considered to be unique in the world. Although Japan is not the only country to consider guests, both in the home and in the hospitality industry, as kings or even gods, it is alone in many other respects. I will not try to argue that a five-star property does not adequately meet the needs of guests but what draws me back again and again to the traditional Japanese hotels that house my beloved onsen, is the personalized service of all employees. To be greeted by name and your needs met before you even know they are there is a rarity in multinational chains but a certainty when you visit the onsen.
Every guestroom in Shiomiso affords a panoramic view of the beach, the Japan Sea and the magnificent sunsets that have contributed to the success of Senami Onsen. You are unlikely to witness the colorful spectacle from your room, however, as the hotel boasts the existence of a ‘Sunset Gallery’ which offers stunning views through its floor to ceiling windows. It also contains the works of the infamous photographer and sunset critic, Masayuki Yui, who is rumored to spend his days traveling the world in search of the perfect sunset. The stunning photos are a perfect appetizer for the spectacular sunset to follow. Every evening as the sun begins its slide down across the sky, announcements tell guests how much time that they have to prepare themselves for the event of the day. Through the spectacle while people become almost overcome with emotion, hugging their neighbors and celebrating this beautiful ‘trick’ of nature.
Emotional for some people perhaps but not what Spa Lady Windy was looking for! I wanted to enjoy my first sunset from the warm embrace of my onsen lover. Apart from several deluxe inside baths, Shiomiso also boasts an open-air facility that provides a wonderful combination of warm, healing water and fresh ocean air. As I entered the spa for the first time, the mist rose from the onsen and mingled with the deep red that burned from the sky. It was a spectacular sight and remains to this day a special memory.
I want to describe to you some of the difficulties I experienced in my quest to become a real nakai-san. I learnt that Japanese hospitality did not easily earn its reputation of excellence, that it requires the diligence of young apprentices to successfully learn how to treat guests with the correct deference. At Shiomiso, we had daily briefing sessions where each employee was given their task for the day. Mine was to learn the skills to make me as qualified as the others. I learnt that as you greet a guest, your bow must be 30 degrees, when you request a guest to wait a moment, it must be 15 degrees and when you are thanking or apologizing it must be 45 degrees. I found this difficult to achieve in the practice room and even harder when faced with a guest’s request!
Nakai-san have few rules but they do have certain codes of conduct that are perhaps even stricter. Waitresses wear little make up and no perfume as they perform their duties. It is the belief that the strong scent of the perfume or even the more subtle aroma of beauty products can interfere with the delicate flavors of Japanese cuisine and hinder the guest’s enjoyment of his hot spring experience. Resorts focus not only on the quality of the spring and the baths it fills but also on service. In order to make the visit an excellent experience in every way, everything must be perfect. One whiff of an unpleasant perfume while a guest is sipping sake or enjoying a snack could mean the difference between an enjoyable stay and a perfect experience – unacceptable to all okami.
I learnt these skills and nuances against a stunning backdrop. As I sat with my beloved onsen the sun’s golden glow caressing my skin and the cool sea breeze brushing my face, I thought I heard a soft voice from across the ocean that seemed to echo what I was thinking – “This is Heaven on earth”.
