瀬波温泉夕映えの宿「汐美荘」2-1
The Sun Sets on my Onsen Bath - Senami Onsen in Niigata
The sun rises majestically at dawn to bathe the world in its warm glow. At day’s end, its work done, it sinks down for its hard-earned slumber. Before it disappears, the fiery ball reminds the world of its power in a spectacular show of vibrant colors. To witness this from my beloved onsen – what better?
The Senami hot spring, located just outside Murakami in the northeast of Niigata Prefecture, is renowned for the sunsets over the Japan Sea that can be seen from the serenity of the bath. The area is a popular destination year round but in the winter when the Salmon, Sweet Shrimp, Crab and Yellowtail are at their best, it is not only Spa Lady Windy that travels to Senami Onsen to have a taste of this unique delight! As the temperature drops the culinary delights tempt me from afar, the sunsets seem to guide my journey and the warm waters of the onsen welcome me with open arms.
No one can be in any doubt now about my passionate love of onsen. What you don’t know, perhaps, is that I harbor a secret love of history. Not schoolbook history that limits details to names and dates but real life history. I like to think of it as travel history – where I can travel to an unknown destination, walk around and soak up the feelings around me, listen to the spirits that seem to tell stories through beautiful buildings and narrow, picturesque lanes. When I travel to many Japanese onsen, my love of both finds much to feed on and Senami is no exception. Murakami is a very historic, castle town that has an impressive collection of historically important temples and shrines. As a result other industries grew up in the town that tell stories in themselves. The Murakami lacquer craft or ‘Murakami-zushu’ has a six hundred year history and has contributed to the culture of the city, not only by enhancing its aesthetic beauty but also by drawing other artists who were inspired by the craft.
Located on the edge of the Japan Sea and with a spectacular view of Senami Beach is the Shiomiso or Sun Set Inn, recommended as one of the top 100 resorts in Japan by the book “Professional Hotel Selection Reserved Bible, Millennium Edition”. This superbly situated hot spring resort hotel is renowned not only for the beautiful traditional Japanese style it maintains but also for its sunset gallery. Before I was to discover this I stood near the hotel, by the Japan Sea, noting the contrast between the steaming hot spring and the cool waters of the sea and I thought how beautiful it must be to bathe in the spring and enjoy the sight of the sun setting over the glistening waters. The hotel was shining, reflected in the light of the deep red sun that hung low in the sky like a suspended fireball.
I resisted the urge to stay there gazing at this sight and turned to receive my second emotional delight of the day. Shiomiso’s Okami, Kyoko Asano stood at the gate of the resort surrounded by her staff, holding a welcome banner. As I moved closer I realized that it had been prepared for me. I was, in a manner of speaking, reporting for duty, yet this kind woman was welcoming me like an old and cherished friend. “Windy Yang, Wishing You a Warm Welcome to Shiomiso” read the banner and I was greeted with words of even greater kindness. My eyes misted over and I had to bow my head so they couldn’t see how moved I was by their kindness. Fortunately for me, this is the correct response to many occasions in Japan so I escaped unwanted attention. I was to learn how important the bow was, how the precise degree of the angle you bow reflects what message you are trying to convey. But that would come later. I must first take you on a tour of this magical hotel.
